

Until recently, I cut my sewing patterns to the size I wanted. That is, I chopped straight into the tissue that came in the packet. I just didn't know anything else and anyway, I have to confess, the prep before you start sewing is not my favourite part. I always wash and dry my new fabric, but then there is cutting out the paper pattern, pinning it to the fabric and cutting it out.... it takes ages to get to the fun part, sewing!
I'm sure I'm not alone in wanting to hurry up and get on with it and also, the cutting part feels so FINAL. Especially when I am using beautiful fabric that's sat around for ever waiting for the perfect pattern.... do you have those pieces of fabric too? (and those skeins of yarn?) And, these days, having enough time to get all the pieces laid out, pinned and cut without someone running all over it or wanting to "help" is one of my biggest challenges.
Anyhow. I've turned a new leaf. I've started tracing my pattern pieces from the original AND I am even planning to make a muslin. There are a few reasons why I'm changing my ways. Firsly, I've bought a couple of beautiful Japanese sewing books which include the patterns on a few sheets of paper, all laid one over the other. In order to make any of the patterns you have to first trace the pieces you want. So basically, I have to change. My other reason is that although I suspect I am at more-or-less the size I'm going to be post-babies... nothing is certain, and my shape has changed over the last eleven or so years. So, I'm cutting the size closest to my measurements and will have a play around with a muslin to get the fit as good as possible. That way, if I need to adjust a piece so that part of it is the next size up or down, or if I get bigger or smaller later, I've still got the original to work from. Plus, some of the patterns I've bought recently look so pretty. It seems a shame to cut them up. (I'm thinking that pdf downloads would be a different story. You could just print out the pattern again and again once you had it on your computer... )
While I'd love a roll of proper drafting paper, it doesn't seem to be that easy to come by. I've found some on Amazon, and it's sat in my basket for a while, but it feels a bit expensive and I haven't got round to actually buying it. In the meantime, I'm using good old baking paper. It's handy and fairly transparent, without being too fragile. The downside is that it isn't terribly wide and I've had to cellotape a couple of pieces together to make it wide enough for some of the pattern pieces for my Washi dress. Actually, I ran out of baking paper with only one piece to go... so I grabbed a piece of A3 white paper and used that. It worked ok, but wasn't nearly as easy to see through.
Tracing is pretty straight-forward. I lay my baking paper over the pattern, weigh it down with bits and bobs and draw the outline in pencil in the size I want. I also mark where there are instructions on the pattern piece; like the piece should lay on the fold, the direction of the grain or the little shapes which mark things like where sleeves attach or darts join. The other important information that I include are the names of the pieces, how many of each piece to cut from the fabric or interfacing, and the size I've traced. So far, so good.
So, folks... do you have any tips you'd like to share? Where do you get your tracing paper? And, how do you store your patterns?
I'm sure I'm not alone in wanting to hurry up and get on with it and also, the cutting part feels so FINAL. Especially when I am using beautiful fabric that's sat around for ever waiting for the perfect pattern.... do you have those pieces of fabric too? (and those skeins of yarn?) And, these days, having enough time to get all the pieces laid out, pinned and cut without someone running all over it or wanting to "help" is one of my biggest challenges.
Anyhow. I've turned a new leaf. I've started tracing my pattern pieces from the original AND I am even planning to make a muslin. There are a few reasons why I'm changing my ways. Firsly, I've bought a couple of beautiful Japanese sewing books which include the patterns on a few sheets of paper, all laid one over the other. In order to make any of the patterns you have to first trace the pieces you want. So basically, I have to change. My other reason is that although I suspect I am at more-or-less the size I'm going to be post-babies... nothing is certain, and my shape has changed over the last eleven or so years. So, I'm cutting the size closest to my measurements and will have a play around with a muslin to get the fit as good as possible. That way, if I need to adjust a piece so that part of it is the next size up or down, or if I get bigger or smaller later, I've still got the original to work from. Plus, some of the patterns I've bought recently look so pretty. It seems a shame to cut them up. (I'm thinking that pdf downloads would be a different story. You could just print out the pattern again and again once you had it on your computer... )
While I'd love a roll of proper drafting paper, it doesn't seem to be that easy to come by. I've found some on Amazon, and it's sat in my basket for a while, but it feels a bit expensive and I haven't got round to actually buying it. In the meantime, I'm using good old baking paper. It's handy and fairly transparent, without being too fragile. The downside is that it isn't terribly wide and I've had to cellotape a couple of pieces together to make it wide enough for some of the pattern pieces for my Washi dress. Actually, I ran out of baking paper with only one piece to go... so I grabbed a piece of A3 white paper and used that. It worked ok, but wasn't nearly as easy to see through.
Tracing is pretty straight-forward. I lay my baking paper over the pattern, weigh it down with bits and bobs and draw the outline in pencil in the size I want. I also mark where there are instructions on the pattern piece; like the piece should lay on the fold, the direction of the grain or the little shapes which mark things like where sleeves attach or darts join. The other important information that I include are the names of the pieces, how many of each piece to cut from the fabric or interfacing, and the size I've traced. So far, so good.
So, folks... do you have any tips you'd like to share? Where do you get your tracing paper? And, how do you store your patterns?
I love the way you use crystals as paper weights!
ReplyDeleteI buy the burda tracing papers, although I'm constantly worried that they will tare. I've only recently started to make copies of the pattern too. It seemed like a good idea as I'm likely to use the pattern again and again if it's something I like and I'm likely to change in size in the future.
Can't wait to see you washi dress :)
I usually cut my paper pieces out on the kitchen table - and I have a line up of little heavy crystals on the mantelpiece in there - easy :)
DeleteI use dressmaking tracing paper. It's plastic (and waterproof!)so it survives better than the paper patterns. Also, I like making clothes for my children and they keep on growing, so I need to refer back to the original paper pattern. The first cut of the fabric is the worst for me. There is no going back.
ReplyDeleteOh I agree - the first cut is hard!
DeleteWhere do you get your dressmaking tracing paper?
You should be able to find it in a haberdashery department. I can't remember if I bought my latest packet from John Lewis or our local fabric shop. Don't make the mistake of picking up the Burda pattern copier. It's much thinner and meant to be sewn through, not reused. (Frustrating moment when I discovered my mistake!) The dressmaking paper is more like thin plastic and can be reused.
DeleteI think I'm in the minority, as I really enjoy tracing out the patterns! It's an activity I often save for times when I want to do something sewing-related, but don't want to drag out my machine and actually sew. For me, it's a very calming activity too.
ReplyDeleteI trace my patterns onto Swedish Tracing Paper. It's expensive, but I usually use my patterns over and over, and I like how durable it is. It's also slightly "grabby" so I don't usually have to pin - it just sticks to most fabric, and with the help of a couple of pattern weights, don't shift around.
I was going to say that it's good not to cut into the pattern tissue because you never know if you want to make the pattern for someone who is a different size. But let's get real: I never sew for anyone but myself!
I never thought of tracing out patterns before using them and I always wondered what sort of paper to use that would be easy to actually trace out the patterns. I think you might have inspired me to actually find some tracing paper and try it out on my family's favorite teddy bear pattern. I might be able to use some of the patterns in one of my sewing books that my grandmother gave me this way.
ReplyDeleteBaking paper is a great idea! I know Jen at Grailine Studio, uses rolls of butcher's paper, and she swears by it. I need to start tracing my patterns so I can better preserve some of the vintage beauties I have in my pattern collection. But, like you, I hate this part of the process.
ReplyDeleteAh yes, I've read that. Does she mean Newsprint? I guess that would work well and I'm sure it comes easily in rolls...
DeleteMy admiration for your skills just continues to grow! So inspiring!!
ReplyDeleteI DIDN'T KNOW YOU COULD DO THIS!!! I'm a super beginner at sewing, and I have a dress I'm working on that's only half cut out because of your exact reasons - it's not the fun part. It's been like that for several weeks... oops.
ReplyDeleteWhoa I never thought of tracing! My mom taught me to sew when I was a kid. I thought I was hot stuff when she let me cut out the patterns from tissue. Looking back, maybe she just didn't like that part herself?! Ha!! But anyway I enjoyed it then and still do. But I often cheat a little by pinning the pattern down when it's only separated from the other pieces and not yet trimmed, and then cut through both the fabric and the tissue at the same time.
ReplyDeleteI don't have any suggestions for sewing because I don't know a lot, but I'm certainly learning a lot from you. I'll bet the Japanese sewing books are fantastic!
ReplyDeleteI use cheap thin interfacing to trace my patterns onto. I find when I lay it on my fabric to cut out it kind of stick so I can use less *cough* or no *cough* pins..
ReplyDeleteHi Libby - here's how I was taught to transfer patterns when I went to design school. You need to hunt around and buy a little wheel (something like a pizza cutter) called a I guess a tracing wheel - I only know what it is called in Hebrew. Then you get yourself some plain brown paper or unprinted newsprint lay it on an old table (not your best French polished veneer) make sure you know which pieces you need to trace - and place it on top of your plain paper, weight it down, and just roll over the lines with the help of a ruler - to keep those straight lines straight - and your transfer wheel.
ReplyDeleteThe wheel will leave little pin prick marks which you join up using a pencil and ruler - add your seam allowance if you need to - we always worked with 1 cm, and Bob's your uncle. Cut out your paper pattern and you're ready to go. I store them in the nylon see throughA4 pockets - if you can get them here, sure you can get them in England. Best luck, Shelli (your Mum's old schoolfriend from Island Bay).
Hey Shelli! I have one of those little wheels... I don't know why... I seem to acquire things that might be useful one day! I'll think I'd like to have a try of this - sounds like it might be simple. Ta X
DeleteI buy this stuff that looks like interfacing called pattern ease. It is 60 inches wide I think so I can always get my pattern on it very easily. It is fairly sturdy and very easy to see through. I buy it by the bolt from my local quilt shop but you can probably get it at JoAnns. I trace patterns all the time. I sew a lot of clothes for friends and my grand kids. They keep growing so I just trace all the sizes at once and put them in brown envelopes by size. Then I know that I don't have to do any prep work on the pattern again.
ReplyDeleteThanks to the girls down at my local sewing club, they introduced me to the notion of tracing because I hadn't a clue and we all use (not sure what the english equivalent is) crystal paper. It's like the clear plastic that florists use to wrap the exterior of a bouquet. Does that make any sense ?
ReplyDeleteps - I brought my kids snack to school in one of your box bags ! Thank you so much for sharing that.
I think I know the stuff you mean - is it slippery on the fabric?
DeleteYay! about the box bag!
Yes, you do have to pin it to the fabric as it may slip on fabric. Is there a method where you can escape pinning? I would love a shortcut for that. However this film is great for tracing as the plastic has static which makes it 'stick' to the paper plan you are tracing. It's not too expensive either. I'm actually thinking of asking my florist if she would sell me one of her rolls as they must be over a meter in width.
ReplyDeleteWhere can I show you my box bag? I'm so happy with it. I do have a blog (very new to the whole thing) but promise not to post without your permission.
I'll investigate the pin vs no-pin thing and get back to you - It's useful to have the pattern on the pieces though I guess, especially if you are a stop-start sewer like me :)
DeleteYou can post a picture of your box bag to the Flickr group if you like - click on the button at the top of the page (the two dots button). Otherwise, copy me a link to your blog if you post it on there. You're welcome to say you used my tutorial - and of course, I'd love it if you'd link the tutorial back to me!
All done, I have linked back to your tutorial from my post. Let me know if it works properly. As I said I'm a bit new at all this and want to do things properly.
ReplyDeletehttp://filchezmoi.fr/truly-myrtles-box-bag-la-trousse-en-forme-de-boite-de-truly-myrtle/
Your comments would be precious to me too.
I'm loving the idea of a hand made wardrobe- if only I had the skills (and the time).
ReplyDeletexo em
I draw directly on to my fabric in pen, I am not very patient with the whole preparation before sewing thing! - Annie
ReplyDeleteSuper patience you have. I think making a muslin is good because you can make all the mistakes and adjustments on it, from what I've learned from Gail of Today's Agenda.
ReplyDelete