I have an embarrassingly large amount of fine, lime-coloured cotton fabric. Fortunately, I think I've finally found a use for it - it's destined to be muslins, toiles, whatever you call them (is there a difference?). This lime green will be perfect for quickly testing the fit of a pattern before cutting into my treasured fabric. To be honest, I have NEVER made a muslin before. But, in my quest to know all everything about sewing, I thought I'd give it a try. And do you know? It's a jolly good idea. I'll definitely do it again :)
This lovely lime number is my Washi muslin. You only need to test the fit of the bodice, hence it's short. I did have a fiddle around with the darts thinking that maybe I should lower them for a better fit. I think I was just looking for unnecessary complications because after trying them lower, I ended up back where I started - the darts in the pattern are fine for me just where they are...
But I did learn a few things fiddling with my bust darts:
- Your "bust apex" is your nipple;
- All seams should point directly there;
- Dart seams tend to end between 1 and 2 inches before they hit your bust apex but that appears subject to fashion, once upon a time they went right to your bust apex making for quite a pointy look;
- If you're thinking you might have to move your dart, mark your dart seams on your fabric, but don't cut the inside of the dart out just yet;
- When they suggest you baste all your side and shoulder seams, do just that. And don't back stitch out of habit;
- Wear a decent bra when you are trying on your muslin;
- Moving darts isn't actually that tricky.
There are a bunch of good tutorials on moving darts listed on the bottom of this page under "resources - bust adjustment tutorials". I found two more here and here and thought they were particularly good too.
My dress is finished now. I've opted for cap sleeves and a keyhole neckline and both look great. Actually, I'm tempted to sneak in a cheeky second. There's fabric on my pile calling to me "I want to be a Washi top!"... We'll see. This week was supposed to be the week of the bag, but so far I've made no progress on that...
Anyway, muslins. Do you make them?
I don't sew a lick I'm afraid. But interesting to learn the use for muslin. Never knew this. What a great way to fiddle and make mistakes before using the special material.
ReplyDeleteI have started always muslining - it makes such a huge difference to the confidence level when I cut into my actual project fabric!
ReplyDeleteHow great to have a bunch of fabric on hand to use for muslins! I do make muslins, but usually they end up being wearable garments as well. Apparently I'm not afraid to wear an ill-fitting garment, LOL! I'm lucky in that my local fabric shop usually has plenty of inexpensive fabric that is great for first runs with a pattern.
ReplyDeleteCan't wait to see your dress!
I wish I could! Interesting about the darts, as its pretty similar in knitting, although going right to the apex makes for a bad look in knits!
ReplyDeleteI have never made a muslin garment. Maybe that is why my final sewing project never look the way it should. I am too impatient. I want to see your final project.
ReplyDeleteThe lime green makes the muslin step look like fun! I've never even considered making a muslin because I can barely make it through making the actual dress. Sewing isn't my forte, but I give it a shot every few months.
ReplyDeleteSuch a great idea, leave it to you to think of it :)
ReplyDeleteWonderful and thanks for the links. Ive done a lot of reading and watching this past year and all of it has led me to believe that a muslin is the only way to go if you dont want to waste fabric.
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